Tablet Sleeve Tutorial
If you're visiting from The Pinterest Project - welcome! I'm excited to share this tutorial with you. The dimensions are for an ipad 2, but you can customize it for whatever sized tablet you have. I'll share tips at the end for making sure you cut your fabric pieces correctly so that you can make this for a Kindle or Nook or whatever you might have. Here is a peek at what we're making:
You will need:
1/2 yard of outside fabric
1/2 yard of inside fabric
1/2 yard of batting
1- mini magnetic snap (it's a 4 piece set)
scraps of lightweight fusible interfacing and sew-in interfacing
disappearing ink fabric pen
iron and ironing board
and if you have it, a rotary cutter and mat. You can cut your fabric without them, but these tools certainly make it easier.
Cut Your Fabric Pieces
I use a rotary cutter and mat. However, if you don't have one, all the pieces are just simple rectangles, so just measure carefully, and cut with sharp scissors.
The measurements for an ipad2 (according to their website, because I don't even have one!) are 7.31" wide and 9.5" tall. So, from the outside and inside fabric, I cut 2- 9 1/2"wide and 11" tall pieces. And then from each fabric, 1- 9 1/2" wide and 6" tall piece for the flap. Here are my 6 pieces.
Take the inside flap fabric and fold it in half, short sides together. Press on the fold.
Starting at the fold, trim along the bottom and curve up the open side of the fold. If you don't like the idea of doing this free-hand, find something curved, like a small plate, and trace it first then cut. Just be sure to cut at the open end, not where the fold is.
Open the fabric. Place a small square of lightweight fusible interfacing over the fold, about 1/2" up from the bottom. If you've never used fusible interfacing, make sure the bumpy part is facing down, on the fabric. The smooth side should be facing up, towards your iron. Otherwise you'll iron your interfacing to your iron, which is never a good thing. Press, but don't move your iron around.
Next, take a piece of batting large enough to cover your flap pieces and lay it down on your work surface. Place the outside piece of the flap right side up on top of that. Place the inside piece of the flap on top of that, little interfacing square side facing up. Pin through all the layers.
Sew your layers together, starting at the upper right hand corner, around the curve and stopping at the upper left hand corner. Use a 1/2" seam and backtack at the beginning and end. Don't sew the top closed.
Trim away the excess, following the stitches, but do not cut too close to them. Leave at least a 1/4" seam allowance.
Very carefully, snip into the seam allowance around the curve. Be careful not to cut into the seam.
Turn the flap right side out and press.
Top-stitch close to the edge with a longer stitch length.
Grab your 4-piece magnetic snap. There are two metal backing circles and two disks with prongs on the backs of them. the one with the slight bump will go on the flap. The one with the slight indentation will go on the outer pouch. On the wrong side of the flap you'll see the pressed fold you made at the very beginning. Line up one of the backing circles on the fold. Center the middle dot on the crease, about 1/2" up from the edge of the flap. Use your fabric marking pen to make two marks in the slits on either side of the center circle.
Using a seam ripper, very carefully cut the inside fabric and batting on those marks. Do not cut through the outside fabric. I usually stick my hand in there to guide the seam ripper, making sure it doesn't make too long of a cut or poke through the front fabric.
Push one of the pronged parts of the magnetic snap through the slits. I used the thinner piece with the bump. Push a scrap of sew-in interfacing over the prongs (you might want to cut slits in this first too) and then put the metal circle over the interfacing. Push the prongs out, until they are flush with the metal circle. Set the flap aside.
Grab one of the inside pieces and fold it in half, long sides together. Iron a crease in the bottom of the fold.
Open the fabric piece and measure out 2 1/2" on either side of the crease and mark with your fabric marker. This will be your opening.
Place one piece of the inside fabric down on a work surface. Place the piece with the crease and marks on top of that, lining up raw edges. Pin in place, making sure to put a pin at each pen mark.
Using a 1/4" seam, sew down from the top right hand corner to the first mark (where my red pin is). Make sure you backtack at beginning and end. Lift your foot and slide your fabric to the next mark (where my green pin is). Start sewing again, and finish at the top left hand corner, backtacking at the start and stop. Don't sew the top closed. You will have an opening along the bottom, where I have my hand.
Next, place a piece of batting down on your work surface. Make sure it is slightly bigger than your outside pieces. Then, layer one outside piece, right side up on top of the batting. Trim away the excess batting. Repeat with the other outside piece and batting. Then with one outside piece/batting combo on the work surface, place the other outside piece/batting combo on top, with right sides of the fabric together and batting on the outside. Line up your raw edges and pin through all four layers. Sew from the top right hand corner down one long side, all the way across the bottom and up the left side. Use a 1/4" seam. You do not need to leave an opening hole on the bottom. Be sure not to sew across the top.
Trim the bottom corners off of both the inside lining and the outer pouch.
Turn the outer pouch right side out, press and pin the flap to the top with the right side of the flap touching the right side of the outer pouch. Machine baste in place with a 1/4" seam.
Leave the lining pouch wrong side out (your seams will be showing). Slide the inner pouch over the outer pouch.
Pull it all the way up until the raw edges are touching. Match the seams of the outer and inner pouches and pin all the way around the top.
Sew all the way around the top, using a 1/2" seam.
Through the hole you left in the bottom of the inner pouch, pull out the outer pouch.
Keep pulling until the outer pouch is completely out and the inner pouch gets pulled right side out. It will be up above the outer pouch.
Push the liner down into the outer pouch and press the seam flat. Then topstitch around the bag again, close to the fold you just ironed.
Close the flap, and then pull it back slightly so you can see the one part of the magnetic snap that you inserted earlier. Place the other snap backing on the outer pouch where the snap will meet the fabric.
With your marking pen, mark the two slits.
Pull the inner liner out of the pouch again, so that you don't accidentally cut through it. Put your free hand in through the hole in the liner, and down to the outer pouch so you can guide the seam ripper as it cuts on the two slit marks. You're only cutting through the front piece of the outer pouch and its batting.
Insert the other magnetic part through the slits and turn your work so that you can see the prongs poking through the opening in the liner. Slide on your last piece of interfacing, and the metal ring.
Push the prongs out to the sides.
Push the raw edges of the liner opening in to the inside and press. Then sew the opening closed.
Push the lining back into the outer pouch and you're done!
A note about measuring for other e-readers or tablets:
You can use this pattern for Nooks or Kindles, you just need to measure for your device. When measuring, lay your device on a hard, flat surface. Take a tape measure and lay it across your device, pushing the tape measure down to your flat surface. That number is what you want as your final inside dimension. So, for instance, my Kindle is 4 3/4" wide, but when I push down on the measuring tape, I get a measurement of 6". I will add 1" - 1 1/2" to that width for the seam allowance and that is what I'll cut.